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Why do I bought Cloqué elastic with border
The first cold morning a few days ago reminded me that the season of social events is slowly and inexorably approaching. So it's high time to prepare for the upcoming season. And when to prepare, then, from the best that the world and fashion textile hierarchy can offer? Under such a label is the brand Luigi Boldrini, unknown to most of us among world brands.
It is a small, Italian spinning and weaving mill. It does not support mass production, which is why we, as end consumers, do not know it, but it functions more like a textile boutique for luxury world brands.
I had never heard of this brand until recently. But then I spotted it in the Par Excellence store, where I saw it on a mannequin and the fabric took my breath away.
The fact that Giorgio Boldrini's fabric was available for purchase in a luxury fabric store was an absolute rarity, as I later found out. This Italian mill supplies the world's fashion houses and rarely has a surplus. If it does, exclusive custom tailoring retailers, such as the aforementioned Par Excellence store, immediately buy it up.
Normally, I wouldn't dare use this type of fabric. But it has a distinctive copper metallic effect, which, when combined with cloque, creates beautiful shades. The fabric is clearly very expressive. It has a beautiful structure that creates a copper-chocolate effect with a red border.
The woman in this dress will definitely not shrink to fit into the room. Her energy will flow naturally into the space, without trying to play with anything. Her step will be strong and calm. Unique. That was the first idea that crossed my mind when I saw the fabric. Immediately after that, I wondered how I would process the fabric to bring out its beauty to the fullest. A moment later, I was happily carrying the fabric home. 😁
How to Sew a Haute Couture Dress at Home
We often look for how to sew haute couture at home. It is manageable even for a beginner. But first, let me explain the terms so we are all on the same page.
The difference between Couture and Haute Couture is that Haute Couture is basically a brand. Only selected fashion houses can use it if they meet strict criteria. In contrast, Couture is the term for everyone else's haute couture, from a top tailoring salon to home, as long as we give the clothes the necessary care. That is why I will continue to use only the term Couture in the article.
We don't have to be extra-advanced seamstresses to sew a Couture dress. I am still a beginner myself. However, you must give the garment the care it needs when creating it, especially in the details that separate it from garments that are "quickly" sewn.
Here, you will learn how to sew a couture dress at home on a regular sewing machine, step by step, with a little care.
Couture dress pattern
This dress does not need a pattern. You can make it yourself using easy techniques even as a complete beginner. If you choose the right fabric, it will do a lot of the work for you, just like it did for me.
What you need
Fabric - preferably cloque or another sculptural fabric with which you can create a beautiful silhouette
Thread in the color of the fabric
Thick elastic around the bust in a color that matches the fabric
TIP: The fabric must be at least 130 cm / 51.18 in wide; then choose a length of at least 1m / 39,37 in to allow for the cut and shape of the dress.
My fabric was a panel, so the size was given. If your fabric is less than 110 cm / 43,3 in wide, buy two lengths. To create a sculptural skirt, you need enough width so that the skirt stands out well.
Tailor's chalk, white or a suitable color if you have light fabric
Tailor's tape measure
Pins
Needle
Sewing machine
Estimated Time
15 hours of your time
Dress specifics
For this dress I used:
The popular French seam
Honeycomb smocking
Hidden seam made by hand
Why did I use these elements?
Using a French seam gives you beautifully finished seams in your garment. Your dress will have a professional touch and quality.
Then I cleaned the bottom of the dress using a hidden seam that I sewed by hand. I chose hand sewing because the fabric is shiny thanks to the metallic element. If I sewed the fabric raw, this seam would be visible. My goal was to create an elegant and unmissable dress. Therefore, I had to choose elements that would elevate the model to the level of quality of the fabric.
For the bodice, I used honeycomb smocking, which I sewed by hand, stitch by stitch, so I could adjust each stitch as needed and ensure the fabric had the elasticity needed for the dress to fit every figure.
Join the Quiet Sewing Movement
This whole process and procedure is quite a time-consuming manual job. But when I do something, it makes sense to do it properly and honestly, so it's useful. It doesn't matter if I'm a beginner or an advanced. This is about our approach. These clothes will not only be beautiful and made of quality materials, but also sustainable, because we will wear them for several seasons thanks to their quality. I call this concept Quiet Sewing. It's our own creation, our own Quiet Luxury, where our identity and our own creativity speak. That's what Quiet Sewing is about: our creation, expressing our own identity, and also a little bit of rebellion, because I believe haute couture or luxury couture creation is not just for the top 1% of the population. It's the democratization of luxury, available to the rest of us who are willing to take a step into the unknown and sew our own clothes at home.
You no longer have to explain in detail what you do; just say Quiet Sewing, and people will know you sew your own wardrobe from quality materials, so it is timeless and sustainable.
How to Sew a Couture Dress Beginner-Friendly Tutorial
Prepare the planned length of your dress
Cut the desired size +1 cm / 0.4 in seam allowance at the top of the dress and +6 cm / 2.4 in extra seam allowance at the bottom.
Sew the back seam with a French seam
Sew the ends of the fabric together vertically with a straight stitch, right sides together, to create a seam on the back. Cut off the excess fabric, then turn the resulting tube wrong side out and sew the seam again so it is at least 1 cm from the edge. Before sewing the second time, compare the fabric and gently iron along the seam edge so it holds well and stays straight.
Using zigzag stitches, sew the top and bottom edges of the entire dress.
Hand sewing a hidden seam
Now let's make the bottom hem of a couture dress for beginners. Now turn the tube wrong side out. At the bottom edge, take a piece of the sewn seam and fold it outwards. Gently secure it with thread. A little further away, approximately 3.5 cm / 0.5 in, secure another piece of the edge in the same way. Repeat this process to gently secure the entire bottom circumference of the dress. Once you have the entire circumference done, fold the fabric in the same way again. This time, fold 5 cm / 1.9 in, and sew the entire bottom section in the same way. This will create a wide edge that will be securely sewn invisibly to the dress and will not turn out when you turn the dress right side out.
Honeycomb smocking
I wanted a stretchy seam on the dress that would also beautifully decorate the fabric and make its imaginative structure stand out. For this reason, I chose the manual Honeycomb smocking technique. I prepared a pattern (dots) on the wrong side of the fabric across the full width of the dress, on both the front and back. This stitch took the most time. I drew lines along the bodice that measured 4.6 cm / 1.8 in. On these lines, I then marked regular dots that measured 4.6 cm / 1.8 in. apart. There is one rule for marking dots on fabric: always place the dots in the same place on one line to create the correct visual effect after embroidery, and always place the dots the same way across one line. The second line has dots exactly in the middle on the second line. I sewed each stitch individually to keep the dress flexible, and I didn't stretch the fabric too much when sewing the individual dots. It is enough to sew the individual seams with a completely ordinary, straight stitch about 4 times and then finish.
Sewing the upper part of the couture dress
Prepare the wide strip of elastic you purchased. Measure your bust where the hem of your dress will end. From this length, subtract approximately 3.5 cm / 0.5 in and sew the ends of the elastic together. Now turn the dress right side out. Thread the resulting circle of elastic onto the top edge of the dress. Pin the elastic evenly to the dress. Zigzag stitch the top edge so that you can then fold the elastic into the inside of the dress.
If you leave the top of the fabric longer like I did, that is also fine. Then cut off the remaining piece of fabric, zigzag stitch it, and fold it inwards.
Voilà, your homemade cocktail couture dress is ready.
Let's do the math
I bought the fabric at Par Excellence shop, where I paid 83 EUR or 96 USD for one panel. The fabric is very premium. However, due to its width, I only needed one panel for one dress.
I sewed the bodice in 15 hours, because I made the bodice using the honey comb technique, which is time-consuming. The result is fantastic. At the same time, I finished the bottom seam with an invisible seam.
If I were to look for a similar dress in luxury boutiques, I would find similar material, but without the handwork that only Haute Couture workshops would do. Even so, I could estimate that I could get a similar dress (if I don't take into account the hours of my handwork) in a luxury boutique for approximately 2273 - 3720 EUR or 2640 - 4320 USD.
A little courage
Even beginners can sew couture dresses at home. You just need to choose the right fabric for the right event and allow for a little time. The dress is practically made from a tube. It has no armholes, no zippers, no buttons. Just an elastic bodice. If you can sew straight, you're in luck, because there are no darts on the dress.
Thanks to the elastic material, which I added with an elastic seam, the dress perfectly shapes the female silhouette. It will create a beautiful figure for all women, as the sculptural skirt will complement the female silhouette.
If I used the same cut on ordinary canvas, I could say that I sewed a nice summer dress. This way I have beautiful, evening cocktail dresses that any of you can dare to wear. All you need is about 15 hours of time and an ordinary sewing machine.
If you need any advice, feel free to contact me or the community by commenting below the article.
I am keeping my fingers crossed for you, and remember, we are in this together, so if you need anything, feel free to reach out.
Happy Quiet Sewing 🌸
Dana
