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How do you know if cashmere is of good quality if the manufacturer doesn't list this information on the clothing label?
Hi. Have you ever wanted to buy a cashmere sweater? Investment what? I was surprised at first, too. Nevertheless, I bought a sweater. See where, and how I chose them. Then another and another… You know the "I have nothing to wear", right? 😁 After wearing different cashmere sweaters for a while, from different brands, I found out that not all cashmere is the same. So I started learning to recognize Grade A cashmere without a label. There are different qualities of cashmere. Unfortunately, not all manufacturers always indicate the quality level of the cashmere on the label of a given sweater, scarf, or anything else. The usual information is the cashmere content, e.g., 100% cashmere or 20% wool and 80% cashmere. However, manufacturers no longer indicate the specific quality of the cashmere. I mean grade A, B, and C. Usually, if someone states this information, it is specialized retailers or luxury brands. However, if you go with the middle ground, you usually won't find this information on the label.
How did I learn to recognize the quality of cashmere so that my sweater or anything else will last me a long time?
I learned to do my own quality test 😉, which I'll share with you here. These are such a quick and easy tips, like how to test a sweater in a store before buying it without damaging it.
When I test cashmere quality, I only test clothes made of 100% cashmere. Once your beloved sweater also contains a proportion of other fibers, such as wool or silk, the test no longer makes sense. Other fibers have different characteristics and properties, but you may already know this from another friend, or your mother may have told you when she passed down hers to you. My mother passed down quite a bit to me. I think she would have been happy if I had been interested in knitting (it was her passion), but, hey, it's a bit boring for me, and I only came to like sewing over time.
One of the things I have learned on my own over time is how to recognize quality cashmere. I will describe how I approach it below; it may also help you decide which piece to invest your finances in.
Testing cashmere elasticity
I gently and carefully pull on the bottom of the sleeve or the bottom hem of the sweater. If the part remains stretched and does not return to its original shape elastically, I prefer not to buy the sweater or anything else. According to this sign, the cashmere fiber is spun from short fibers, and the sweater would soon lose its shape.
The light test for knit density
A proper cashmere garment should have such a high knitting density that nothing can be seen through the knit. If the knitting density is low and light shines through the stitches, I am very careful because this means the knit stitches are too loose, the sweater is lighter, and it may not hold its shape. Sometimes you have a light, thin sweater, for example, for summer. This definitely does not reduce the quality of the cashmere fiber, but it is a form of processing for the knit. I have 2 such summer sweaters for the evening. Both are high quality, but light and see-through, so I am careful with them. Starting with wearing without heavy shoulder bags, gentle hand washing, and storage.
How to spot cashmere pilling before buying
This is a very important moment. The level of pilling directly indicates the sweater's quality and the quality of the fibers' processing. I test it by placing my hand on a spot on the sweater and, with slight pressure, stroking it back and forth. I have been doing this for a while. It doesn't take long. In a moment, you will see if fine pills form on the sweater. This will tell you how quickly the sweater pills. If there are any, it is clear that the manufacturer used fine short fibers, which are of lower quality than long, firm ones. The final garment is, unfortunately, of lower quality.
If I am wearing a knitted sweater, for example, I do this little test with the sleeves of my sweater as well. I keep my palm hidden in my sweater and practically rub the sweater against the sweater. Not aggressively with pressure, but really gently. The goal is not to destroy the sweater, but to check its quality. The fact that the knit of my sweater has a pattern makes this test faster than just a quick hand. But that's just my little observation from the last few days. 😎
Avoid excessive softness
It is terrible how many manufacturers are able to practically destroy the clothing they sell in order to increase their sales just for the sake of higher sales. Not everyone knows this, which is why I mention it. Excessive softness, or even softness, does not belong to the new cashmere. Cashmere softens over time as you wear it. So it is a little firmer when you buy it, and that is completely fine.
On the other hand, what is not fine is if it is too soft, or even so soft it is shaggy. It will leave an impression on you in the store, but be careful when making a purchase. Such a garment has undergone a softening process that has effectively damaged it. Cashmere is naturally not shaggy. So if you are holding such a sweater in your hand, someone has already given this knit a real hard time and pulled out individual fibers to make it look soft. The structure of the fibers in the knit is already damaged, and you have not even worn it once. I have 2 such shaggy cashmere sweaters at home. In the photos below, I show you how such a sweater actually looks after 3 wears in the areas where the sleeves rub. I'll probably keep it at home because it will come in handy in the winter, but personally, I wouldn't go shopping again after this discovery. 😕
Check hems and seams
Seams and hems are very important. I once looked at my sweater incorrectly, and after just a few wears, I saw that a stitch was coming out of the seam. The seam was done quite quickly and was not done well. Just fast sewing. I managed to catch the stitch and sew it back on, so the sweater stopped tearing, but I've been paying attention to it ever since. If you ever have a stitch on a cashmere sweater come off, catch it with a needle and carefully sew it back on with the previous stitch as quickly as possible so that your sweater doesn't get damaged further. Normally, you can wear it for years. It's no big deal. Also, make sure the hems are strong enough. They should always be stretchy so that the sweater fits nicely. If you're thinking about buying a cashmere scarf or throw, for example, it's of course different, and a stretchy seam is not needed because the knit is finished smoothly.
When choosing your favorite sweater, follow this rule: high price does not always mean high quality, and inspect the sweater carefully before buying to make sure it is really well-made.
Once you have chosen your final piece, don't forget to take good care of it at home. 🥰 With proper care, you will ensure that your cashmere sweater will still look great after a few years. I have written few tips on proper care. I have had 3 sweaters from Massimo Dutti for 10 years now, and they all look better and better with the years. Moreover, I remember very well that I bought those sweaters a few years ago for around 288 USD or 247 EUR. Today, the price of similar sweaters from the same brand is around 374 USD or 321 EUR.
